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As the _azaan_ echoes from the _minars_ of Bombay's mosques, every evening -- calling the faithful to break their dawn to dusk fasts -- there is a tearing hurry at the numerous food

stalls in the _mohallas._ A hurry to prepare and keep ready the Ramzaan specials at lightning speed before the hungry hordes descend. It’s difficult to decide whether Jumman Miya is

preparing _jalebis_ faster than _Abu Hasan Bhai,_ who is deep frying mouth-watering _malpuvas._ Ramzaan is here in all its glory… A wonderful carnival that lasts an entire month. The same

_mohalla,_ that appears deserted during the day, is transformed into a boisterous _mela_ after the sun dips below the horizon. Shopkeepers, hollering at the top of their voices, sell

anything edible, from fruits to the most oily and diet-be-damned snacks. Even _mishwak_ can be found here; _mishwak_ being those special chewable twigs that replace toothbrushes in Muslim

homes during the holy 30 days. This is the great Ramzaan bazaar. Full of life and colour. Atmosphere. And wonderful aromas. The year 1998 was a very special year for Muslims. Ramzaan was

observed twice in one calendar year. It has been many years since that happened. A visit to the _mohallas_ during Ramzaan is a must for everyone who loves food. So join me on this journey to

the interesting Ramzaan haunts in the _mohallas_ of South Bombay. What is so special about eating in these _mohallas_? Where are these localities? What does _mohalla_ mean? Once you arrive

close to J J Hospital or Mohammed Ali road, in south Bombay, just beyond the celebrated Victoria Terminus, get ready to discover the famous _mohallas._ Amongst the more famous and frequented

_mohallas_ are Nagdevi street, near Crawford Market, Minara Masjid and Bori Mohalla. Each place prepares the same delicacies. But one _mohalla_ or the other has gained a reputation for a

particular dish. The thumb rule -- like your Hindi celluloids – that if you’ve seen one you’ve seen them all, does not apply here. The gourmet can immediately spot the subtle variations in

taste. The _paya-lamba pav_ (trotter curry served with diamond shaped loaves), chicken _masala_ and _naan-chap_ (long thin kebabs eaten with _naans_ or leavened breads) tastes great at

Nagdevi street. The _malpuvas_ prepared at Minara Masjid are splendid. While the _baida rotis_ of Bori Mohalla are famous. Shall we begin? If you walk out of Nagdevi street and keep walking

north you will reach the twinkling Minara Masjid in Memon Mohalla. When you set eyes on the lit up mosque you will have no problem recognising it. Suleman Mithaiwala -- which has stood at

the entrance of the Minara Masjid _galli_ as long as I, or my father or grandfather can remember -- prepares the best _malpuvas._ Don’t be confused when you order a _malpuva_ and are asked

whether you want a double or a single. It has nothing to do with size. They only want to know whether you want yours made with two eggs or one. Abu Hasan Chacha, who sits there, ladling

delicious _malpuvas_ from giant woks of hot oil, has been effortlessly preparing these golden, deep-fried pancakes for the past 20 years. And believe me, Uncle, knows how to make them. These

fragrant, piping hot sweetmeats, made from _rawa_ (semolina), flour, sugar, eggs and yeast, are pretty heavy on the stomach. I doubt if one person would be able to wolf down an entire

_malpuva,_ especially after all the _khiri-kaleji_ and fried chicken you may have eaten at the stalls facing the sweet shops. Janata Chicken 65 Stall is a great place to eat _khiri-kaleji_

(crispy masala fried udders and heart), _gurda_ fry or (kidney and liver dry fried with red or green masala), chicken fry, masala dry fried _bater_ or quails or _bheja_ fry (masala brain).

Don’t ask what 65 stands for. Even the owners don’t know what it means. The Minara Masjid neighbourhood attracts a rather eclectic crowd. You may be breaking bread, or rather tearing _pau,_

with well to do families, from the high rises of Colaba, Cuffe Parade or Peddar road, or just as easily with the odd _phirang_ (tourist) trying out the _tava_ dishes. That is one of the

reasons why Ramzaan fare near the Minara Masjid has become more expensive. It would be a good idea to be sure of what you are ordering and how much it costs. Better safe than conned! Even if

your stomach is full. Don't miss snacking on the mango or _saadi firni_ or the _khaja_ (white flour pastry) while you hang around. Another delicacy is the _santhal,_ which is a

speciality of the Memon women who prepare it from rice and _mawa._ Nagdevi street -- amongst the _mohallas_ you would like to visit -- is the most difficult to navigate. Situated in the

midst of the crowded Crawford Market area, Nagdevi street dishes out the best of _baida-rotis, naan_ sandwiches and _khiri kaleji._ Tawakkal Tandoori Centre is the place to head for.

Interestingly it is owned by the three brothers, who inherited Bori Mohalla's famed Bara Handi restaurant from their father. Over a period of time they have expanded their repertoire

and now serve Chinese food too! The three brothers handle the three stalls on a rotational basis; two years at each place. The nearby Badri Sweet shop is another great _malpuva_ and_ firni_

haunt, not to forget their wonderful _jalebis._ Bori Mohalla is the last of the _mohallas,_ located beyond Minara Masjid. To get here, take a right out of the Minara Masjid lane. On your way

to Bori Mohalla you will pass the famous Noor Mohammedi Nalli Nihari restaurant. Stop in and have a bite of their famous mutton marrow curry, served with _naan;_ a fairly decent restaurant,

even though it is a Grade II eating-house. Bori Mohalla is the home of the famous Bara Handi Hotel (restaurant), right across from the tomb of the late Bohra leader, Syedna Tahir Saifuddin

Saheb. Bara Handi... Twelve different _handis_ or cauldrons of beef or mutton _salans_ and _kormas_ (curries) -- ranging from _chote ka paya_ (mutton trotters curry) to _pichota_ (tail

curry) or _bade ka paya_ (beef trotters curry) – are available. Very oily, moderately spicy… yet delectable. You can choose to eat three, four of them together with _naan_ or one at a time.

All weight watchers should abstain. Once you are tucking into Bara Handi delicacies, you can’t help throwing caution to the winds. Bara Handi, like many of the other stalls and eateries

mentioned, serves up its 12 curries all year round, but for Ramzaan it always has a few special curries, as does the entire locality. A random walk into any of the lanes close by will --

minutes later – bring you into the heart of Bori Mohalla. Right outside Hamza Fast Food -- which incidentally serves great chicken rolls and, believe it or not, Russian salad -- stands the

famous Haji Tikka Kababwala. He is famous for miles around for his great melt-in-the-mouth _sheekh kababs,_ chicken _tikkas_ and _khiri._ Right opposite Hajiji, you will find this

_mohalla's_ famous _khichdawallah_ being served in _pyalis_ (cups). _Khichda,_ for the uninitiated, is a fragrant stew of _dal,_ wheat flour and meat that has been allowed to simmer for

a long while. Around the corner from here, served out of a garage, are the tastiest _baida roti, baida_ roll and _naan_ sandwiches (stuffed with _kheema_ or mince) . Buy and tuck in for as

little as Rs 8 or Rs 10. Do a complete U-turn and you arrive at possibly the best _sherbat_ stall in the entire area. Imam Badar Sherbatwalla has been running his stall since the days of the

British. Even today the _sherbat_ – made from seasonal fruit (apples, right now), milk and _malai_ (cream) -- is priced at a reasonable Rs 6 a glass. Down a glass and reach nirvana. By the

way watch your wallet. These foodie _tamashas_ are happy hunting ground for pickpockets. While you ogle at the food, an adept pocket _maar_ can take few seconds to empty your wallet. As you

wind your way down the interesting little lanes -- where kids are playing badminton with table tennis racquets and shuttlecocks, an improvisation due to space constraints – you will arrive

at Makhadoom Sani Ashrafi Mohiuddin, the most famous and oldest bakery in these parts. The choicest _nankhatais, khari_ biscuits, _zeera_ biscuits, _lamba pav, naan_ come from Makhadoom’s

ovens, still warm and crusty. And priced very reasonably. Across the road is JJ Lassiwala. Great _lassi,_ with a generous topping of _malai._ Price: dirt cheap. What a stomach-satisfying way

to wrap up the proceedings for the evening. By the way if you are still hungry… can it be?… right next to the _lassiwala_ is a _halwawallah_ where you can gorge on some great _halwa

parathas_ and _jalebis._ _Khuda Hafeez!_ _Design: Dominic Xavier_ Slide Show